weeks three + four: still going.

Mar 13

You can find my “Week Two” post here.

*Rosie and Jennings, in San Antonio, Texas*

The intensity of the first two weeks was beginning to take its toll on me. As Jennings and I departed from our Airbnb in Garyville, I could tell we were both looking for some rest as we hurtled as fast as we could toward the Lone Star State. It would be my first time in Texas. This portion of the trip was one I had planned for quite early, as I knew I had to visit one of my closest friends, Rosie, who I hadn’t seen in too long. We would be spending a week with her, during which we could explore some of the surrounding areas and rest.

As we left the swamplands behind—around 8 am—our route took us through BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA, and then DAYTON, TEXAS, where we had a quick lunch with our friend Alex. We arrived at Rosie’s house in SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS by 6:30 pm. An entire day on the road. I hadn’t minded the long drives much. There was nothing to do other than focus on the road. That kind of clarity was just what the mind needed. Driving was my distraction, taking my mind off of anything that could possibly stress me out. And when Jennings drove, I could process everything I had seen and learned the past week. When I saw the sign welcoming us into Texas, it was almost impossible to believe I had been in Charleston, Atlanta, and Nashville only a few days prior. All of that seemed so long ago. This frightened me a bit. Was I supposed to be journaling? What if I forget all of this? I supposed my main priority was documenting the project, but it would be a shame if I tried to bar myself from any personal growth experiences by only focusing on the project. These had been two weeks of many firsts for me, and I was in a jumble of emotions. I was full of joy to be traveling again, excited to see my friends, anxious about the possibility of surprise car trouble—all of those things and more, aside from the energy and buzz generated from the documentary work. There was one thing I had been noticing and commenting on often, though:

“I feel like I’m feeling the entirety of the day again.”

Apart from the general stress that came from being a college student, the feeling of the days starting to blur together and there never seeming to be time for anything had also frustrated me these past few years. However, resting for a week after the semester ended—before I departed for this trip—helped immensely. And then, not worrying about a rotation of classes and homework and exams constantly was giving me enough clarity of mind during the day to just…experience. Everything. My surroundings, the food I ate, the ground I was hiking on, the book I was reading... Twenty-four hours passed as I felt twenty-four hours should—there was no blurring. I don’t know if that makes perfect sense. But it's how I felt.

*San Antonio Missions, in San Antonio, Texas*

That first evening in San Antonio, Rosie and Cisco took us out for some delicious Mexican food, and that pretty much sealed my fate—I was destined to fall happily asleep as soon as we returned home. The next day was dedicated to just resting—no packed itineraries or appointments to make. I had a day-long engagement with the couch and the TV. The rest of the week, Jennings and I saw a few of the sights in San Antonio. We visited the Boardwalk and took a short boat tour through the city. We didn’t forget about the Alamo, and also managed to see the San Antonio Missions, operated through the National Parks Service. One day, we drove to Bandera, and enjoyed the open air of cowboy country, stopping at the Briscoe Western Art Museum on the way back. One thing to mention about Bandera—if you’re ever there, you must stop at Fickle Pickles. They make these pickles that go from sweet to spicy in your mouth and it’s absolutely mind-blowing and delicious. They have other locations, and you can order from them online to ship. And they come in extra spicy. I promise this blog post is not sponsored by Fickle Pickles. I’m just trying to look out for you, dear reader. Of course, we made a trip or two to Buc-ee’s—how could we miss the biggest gas station in the world? I quickly realized everyone else had the same idea too, as I jostled my way through the hordes of people, past the large food area, to a bathroom the size of Faulkner House Books.

Leaving Rosie and Cisco at the end of the week was bittersweet. I was saddened to be leaving my friends and their cats, and the comfort a home brings. I missed home-cooked meals and having a large space to be comfortable. However, a week of rest had re-energized me, and I felt ready to jump into the next chapter of this adventure. After a heartfelt goodbye, Jennings and I departed for AUSTIN, TEXAS, to pick up my friend Kathryn, who would be joining me for the next leg of the trip.

It felt incredible to have the gang all together in Austin. Kathryn, Jennings, and I caught up over some delicious food at Guero’s Taco Bar, and somehow we were able to package and share with Kathryn everything we had done in three weeks’ time. There were many curious stores around the part of Austin we were exploring, but I was able to track down some bookstores I had been meaning to visit. South Congress Books drew us in with its window display and maximalist interior decorating. It was a used bookstore in a small building, so just combing through its treasures was enjoyable enough. We then went over to BookPeople—the largest independent bookstore in Texas—and spent much longer snaking through the vast selections across multiple floors. I feel like I could’ve made a day out of exploring BookPeople, and I’m sure some folks did just that. I left that store thinking about the kind of book-buying experience I valued. BookPeople had so many handmade personal touches, unique sections, and love put into its operation. But with a big store like that, I felt less willing to approach someone about a question, because it seemed like everyone was in a rush to do something—because they probably were. In a smaller bookstore, with fewer people, I felt a little more at peace, and time seemed to pass a little slower. I supposed there were days when I desired a BookPeople moment, and others when I could only manage a South Congress Books vibe. That’s the value of having options available. We winded out the day with a trip to the massive Texas State Capitol building and then went to Velvet Taco for dinner. Kathryn had mentioned earlier in the day that we had to make our way to the Congress Ave. Bridge in the evening because every evening, hundreds of bats flew out from under it. I didn’t know what to make of that, but we were excited to see what she was talking about nonetheless. We winded down the day with a gaggle of other onlookers huddled under the bridge. Everyone had their cameras ready to go, and a palpable excitement filled the air. Soon enough, they all started making their way out, creating a black cloud in the evening sky and flew away down the river as a unit. An epic end to a wholesome day.

*Kathryn and Jennings under the Congress Ave. Bridge, on film, in Austin, Texas*

The next few days brought a lot of miles for Lola to traverse. Getting out of Texas was a task of epic proportions itself, and we were supposed to head to Colorado for my next interview. The morning before our long drive, the three of us swam at Barton Springs for a bit before grabbing lunch at Stubb’s Bar-B-Que. And then I had to say goodbye to Jennings, who’d be flying out of Austin soon after. I had grown very accustomed to traveling with my buddy, and I was so grateful he’d agreed to hop on board this journey for as long as he did. I’m not sure I would’ve had such a smooth time—both during my interviews and just in general—if it hadn’t been for his support. It would be a while before I would see him again. Kathryn and I gave him hugs and goodbyes somewhere near the University of Texas at Austin campus and hit the road, a long day ahead of us.

After almost three hours of driving, Kathryn and I were still somehow in Texas. We decided to stretch our legs at the visitors’ center in EARLY, TEXAS, where the kindest woman eagerly shared with us some places to see in the area. We drove to the neighboring town of BROWNWOOD, TEXAS, which seemed to be right out of a movie about a small town in Texas, save for the fact that it seemed to be sparsely populated at the time we were there. The only bookstore we’d run into—Intermission Bookshop—was closed. We peeked inside the massive windows of the building with a large mural of a bookshelf on its front side. It was dark, but we peeked in, observing a coziness reminiscent of an expensive, wooden home library, fit with a sliding ladder and everything. We kept on driving. After a brief stop—another four hours later—in LUBBOCK, TEXAS, for some Whataburger and a gander at the expanse of land known as Prairie Dog Town—where we didn’t meet any prairie dogs—Kathryn and I headed for AMARILLO, TEXAS, where we stayed for the night.

The next day, we were still going. Still in Texas. I distinctly remember that morning being very windy and overcast. I loved it. It gave the morning a cinematic quality. Kathryn and I headed over to the famous Cadillac Ranch, where an assortment of folks from everywhere converged to marvel at the numerous Cadillacs lined up, coated in years of spray paint. Someone offered us a few cans that were almost out, and I couldn’t resist leaving a mark. TGB. The Greatest Bookscapes. It was the title I had come up with for the project. After having spent the day driving through Palo Duro Canyon State Park in CANYON, TEXAS, the site of the second-largest canyon in the country; Clayton Lake State Park in CLAYTON, NEW MEXICO, a breathtaking scene with an enormous lake and dinosaur tracks; and Capulin Volcano National Monument in CAPULIN, NEW MEXICO, we arrived at our Airbnb outside of DENVER, COLORADO—12 hours after we had left Amarillo. Finally.

*Me, at Red Rocks Amphitheater, in Morrison, Colorado*

The next day gave us a gap day before my interview, so Kathryn and I formed some plans on the go. Surrounded by mountains, it was impossible for us to forego any hikes, as we were constantly reminded of the natural beauty so close to us. First, we drove into Denver Central Market to see a longtime friend of mine, Madi, who had moved to Colorado a few years prior. I hadn’t seen her in all of that time, but we still managed to keep in touch in one way or the other, almost every day. The feeling of embracing a friend after that much time was overwhelming, to say the least, and very quickly I felt as if we were picking up right where we left off. After a pleasant brunch and stroll through town, Kathryn and I found ourselves taking on the day with a brief stop at the iconic Red Rocks Amphitheatre, and the nearby “Buffalo Overlook”—where we failed to see any buffalo. I was having horrid luck with these animal-themed sites. But Red Rocks was a special place. I couldn’t imagine being there at night to see a concert with a backdrop of those large boulders and the starry sky. Well, I could imagine it, but I bet the in-person experience would be unlike any I’d had. Kathryn and I decided to take a dip in the Indian Hot Springs in IDAHO SPRINGS, COLORADO, before a scenic drive to Lookout Mountain to have our breaths taken away again. I was lucky enough to have dinner with Madi, and her partner, Ben, at Federales before we retired for the evening, and I was glad to have spent all day soaking in the area and the people. It gave me a wonderful snapshot of the kinds of people who made up the community there, and I felt better prepared for my interview the next day.

I left a bit earlier than I needed to the next morning to allow for some time to browse the store before the interview. And, of course, I took us to the wrong location. Thankfully, we were still early when we arrived at the Colfax location of Tattered Cover Book Store.

Tattered Cover Book Store

DENVER, COLORADO

If you mention “Tattered” in Denver, there’s a good chance anyone will know exactly what you’re talking about. Tattered Cover is an independent bookstore chain, offering eight locations to choose from in close proximity to Denver, and as far as COLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO. A primarily new bookstore, Tattered Cover also offers used books as a portion of their selection, along with many unique features. For example, you can find bars at three of their locations, and an exclusively kids’ bookstore at Stanley Marketplace. Whatever your vibe, you can find a place to match at Tattered.

And if you feel like going big, you cannot miss their flagship Colfax location. It was definitely the biggest bookstore I had been to up until that point. There was also something poetic about the store being inside an old theater—once a place for stories, still a place for stories. The high ceiling gave Tattered an openness that kept me looking up very often. It was almost like an old library, with steps leading up and down to other levels, and little nooks to park at and spend a few hours doing whatever the heart desired. Even though it was a large space, the personal touches put into the signs and curations weren’t lost on me. It clearly took a lot of people and love from the community to keep this place thriving. I had the unique opportunity of speaking to Tattered Cover’s director of events, Adam Vitcavage. What better way to learn more about how the community finds value in this bookstore, right? Adam and I found ourselves spending more time just getting acquainted with each other’s stories than I had with other interviewees. He apologized for going on tangents, but I had really enjoyed someone else asking the questions for a bit.

“We’re your, just, general bookstore that can rival a big box bookstore,” Adam said. And I had no doubts about that.

How would you describe this bookstore in one word?

“Institutional. Bookstores have been around for a long time. We've been only around for 50 years, but it feels like… since I moved to Denver, everyone knows who and what and where Tattered Cover is.”

“People do want those books they don't know about when they come here,” Adam said in regard to Tattered’s “Book of the Month” program, shining a light on titles and genres that are must-reads but not what the average person interested in a hot fiction title might grab at first. It’s apparent that Tattered has established a sense of trust with its community, and that it continues to honor that trust by giving back as much as it can. “The community in Denver is super diverse, even though you may not think it,” Adam said. “There's a large indigenous population, a lot of immigrants, a lot of refugees… And I think just being in a community that is diverse, even though you may not think it is, you really see it at bookstores because everyone comes to a bookstore.”

As director of events, Adam feels it’s his job to build community by bringing authors in for the people to engage with—whether those are big-name authors or debut writers. However, the pandemic has forced them to get comfortable with switching things up and trying new things. Recently, they’ve been running a program called “Leaders as Readers,” bringing in local leaders to share books that have changed their lives. Also, the e-commerce department that came about as a result of the pandemic is working on getting folks to donate books to prisons. Adam would like to generate more educational programs to engage local youth, but all he ultimately wants is for Tattered Cover to be a refuge.

“…We want people to feel like they can, like this is a library, almost,” Adam explained. “Maybe they're not gonna buy anything—we want them to—but, you know, they can hang out here with friends… This location’s right across from a high school. And we're not during the school year right now, but if we were, there'd be hundreds of high school kids that come over here to eat lunch. And I like that because I know the trouble I got into in high school and the fact that they can just have a safe space to sit and hang out for an hour is super important to me.”

Adam is recommending…

*Woman of Light,* by Kali Fajardo-Anstine

Adam was kind enough to give us a tour of the space after the interview and suggested we check out a bookstore in Arizona—where he was from—when I eventually reached there. Kathryn and I spent a while in the bookstore afterward, and I bought a used copy of Outlander, by Diana Gabaldon, that caught my eye—a book I’d been meaning to read since I had started the show. After a breakfast burrito from the bookstore cafe, Kathryn and I were on our way to camp for the night—in Rocky Mountain National Park.

*On Trail Ridge Road, in the Rocky Mountains, Colorado*

I don’t want to get too much into our time in the Rockies. When I was writing this and looking back to the hikes and drives we had gone on, I thought about how I wanted to keep that experience close to my heart, because it had been one of the most beautiful places I’d ever been. All I will say is that if you go to the Rocky Mountains, take the time to drive Trail Ridge Road. You’ll be at the height of your senses, paying careful attention to driving the along the curves of the road, wanting to lower the windows and feel the air rush in as you notice your breathing patterns change slightly with the altitude. And then suddenly, you’re on top of the world—on an icy moon with towering peaks, and sly creatures called marmots, skirting from attention, disappearing into the snow. I’ve always wanted to live in an urban environment. But as I was writing this blog post back at home, with the subtle stresses of everyday life and putting together a project like this keeping me busy, I wanted nothing more than to be on top of the world again. That night, Kathryn prepared a fire when we returned to our campsite, and I started setting out the sandwich ingredients. The jar of extra spicy Fickle Pickles was completely empty by the end of the night, and we locked our food items in the bear-proof locker before knocking out.

The morning of my next interview, Kathryn and I drove back to the entrance we came from before we realized that we needed to leave through the other side of the park, so we managed to drive through Trail Ridge Road once more on our way to STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, COLORADO. The drive wasn’t incredibly long, but the excitement of the last few days had made me a bit weary, so we decided to freshen up and get some coffee as soon as we could. At Dusky Grouse Coffee, the barista offered us just what we needed, and even pointed us to the upper floor where they had open work rooms. I couldn’t believe my luck. After disconnecting from the outside world for a day in the Rockies, I was feeling guilty for not checking my email or replying to messages. After taking some time to do that and back up as much footage from the past few weeks, we drove into town and went to record the final interview for the week.

Off the Beaten Path

STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, COLORADO

A beacon of warmth in northwest Colorado, Steamboat Springs—a town radiating with energy from outdoorsy families left and right—holds a bookstore I will always remember: Off the Beaten Path. Although this part of the state doesn’t appear as diverse as Denver, you can find a slice of complete inclusivity and diversity inside this bookstore.

“You're gonna find books that fill your soul and feed your intellect about whatever's going on,” said Kim Brack, a manager at Off the Beaten Path. The store offers its used selection upstairs with a sizeable seating area and a cafe in the heart of the new selection downstairs.

“Actually, we had a review that said, ‘Came in for the café. Didn't realize there was a bookstore around the cafe,’ which is the biggest compliment because our café has always kind of struggled, but it's really holding its own now. All locally sourced, ethically sourced beans from small growers all over the world. And then they roast them right there. So, yeah, we're real proud of our cafe, as well.”

I remember walking into Off the Beaten Path perhaps the most out of all the stores I interviewed because when I asked to see Kim, a team member excitedly told me they were expecting me. I don’t know what it was exactly, but something about that excitement was very contagious and I could tell that this store made anyone who walked in feel special. The whole time I was there, I couldn’t help but think about how I wished I had had a store like Off the Beaten Path in walking distance of where I had grown up.

How would you describe this bookstore in one word?

“I would say inclusive. We've got ranchers, miners, skiers, tourists… But it can, kind of, have—sometimes—one thought process… and we've always been a safe haven for everybody to visit”

As the area sees a lot of tourists, the store also offers many sidelines in the form of gift items and the like. But walking into the store, one can see that Off the Beaten Path strives to create a strong relationship with the children in the community. The store accommodates the reading lists of the schools in town and partners with libraries for their reading programs. The store also partners with a nonprofit called Book Trails, supporting kids to go outside and read books. One of the fundraisers they used to do was a “camp-out in the bookstore,” which is exactly what it sounds like. A literacy program, so kids can go and they will read a book while they're outside.

Kim is recommending…

*Don’t Fear the Reaper*, by Stephen Graham Jones

You’re likely to find the Steamboat people outdoors—a lot. “You can hike and hang out, and then summers are just stunning,” Kim told me. “You’ve got fishing and hiking and mountain biking and… it's a very outdoor-centric place. It's part rancher town, part skier town, tourist town—part athlete town. We have a huge history. We have produced more athletes—more Olympic athletes—than any other city in the world. We like to own that.” But this a space that creates opportunities for everyone of different interests, remember? Before the pandemic, the store often relinquished its space to the Dungeons & Dragons crew, offering a cozy environment for folks to immerse themselves in a different world for a bit. That’s pretty in line with what a bookstore is supposed to do if you ask me.

I also learned that another endearing part of living in a small town is getting grow up in a tight-knit community.

“There used to be another nook that was the Kids’ Cave... I can't tell you how many kids had their first kiss in that Kids’ Cave,” Kim said. “So, this is always a safe place for kids to come. In this town, we're very free-range parents. So, when the kids get out of elementary school, they just flood into town. They can go to Lyon’s Drug Store across the street and get a $1 ice cream cone, finish that and come into the bookstore. And so, yeah, kids grow up with us.”

I came back to Off the Beaten Path the next morning to just enjoy a cup of coffee, read, and work for a bit. In fact, if I didn’t have a long journey ahead of me, I may have just stayed in that bookstore forever. But I left Kim and the lovely folks at the store confident that nurturing the interests of children and encouraging them to be comfortable in their skin is one of the most important things a person can do. “We are an anchor or a heart of this community,” Kim told me.

Every community needs an anchor. Why can’t that anchor be a bookstore?

*Cafe at Off the Beaten Path, in Steamboat Springs, Colorado*

That evening, Kathryn and I pulled into the Kampgrounds of America situated a few minutes away from the bookstore, along the Yampa River. It was my first time, staying with the KOA. We had a small bit of land equipped with an outlet, a table with benches, and a source of water. We were under some tall trees, but there was a lamppost towering in front of us that would turn on and off a bit randomly. Kathryn and I set up the tent and rested for a bit. I continued reading American Gods on the bench, the sound of the river, and the little kids running around on the driveway acting as white noise. Later that afternoon, we walked around, noticing bikers and happy people walking their dogs by the river. In Howelsen Park, we ventured around, finding a lift whisking us off the ground and to the top of the hill. I could see all of Steamboat Springs as I gripped the security rod keeping me in the lift. I tried not to let my feet dangle too much and looked straight ahead, not down. After, we tracked down the entrance of a smelly, sulfur cave and then went to Johnny B. Good’s Diner for dinner before walking around town a little more until we were ready to call it a night.

As we winded down that night in my tent, I thought about how Kim and I spent some time touring the store and just chatting about my project after the interview. I remembered Kim being incredibly kind and encouraging me to share my documentary with as many people as I could after it was complete, including folks in the legislature. From the start, I had no idea if anyone other than my friends would care to watch an amateur documentary about bookstores. After speaking with her, all of the effort I had already put in—and was going to be putting in—all seemed worth it.

The final day of the week gave us a few more hours to spend in Steamboat, and I was eager to see more of the town. That morning saw unsolicited excitement as I nudged Kathryn to notice the wasp lingering above us, caught between the tent and the rainfly. Hearts racing, we carefully managed to get the wasp to leave us before freshening up and heading to the farmer’s market in town. I returned to Off the Beaten Path for breakfast, wanting to soak in as many minutes there as I could before Kathryn and I hopped into Lola and continued the journey. That afternoon, we arrived in GYPSUM, COLORADO. We’d have the rest of the day to relax before getting back into the grind of things.

There was so much to come next week.

This week’s food for thought

“But honestly, if you support an indie bookstore, even if it's once a year, that money is going so much further than if you buy anything online. You buy one book here, that is one person's hourly salary. And I don't think any website is doing that. Like, we keep… we, you give us money for your book, and then we will put that back in the community. And, like, I know that's, like, a generic thing that a lot of like, the “shop local” campaigns are, like, “your dollar goes farther here,” but it's, it's not BS. It's actually true. And, like, we, I know, like, our owners want to start, like, giving back to the community being like, like a, like a fundraiser, hub of sorts and we can't do that if we're not open. So, always support indie. I don't know why people wouldn’t. I still buy books across the country at independent bookstores even though I get a discount here. So, Parnassus, or, like, Books Are Magic in Brooklyn. Like, I know all these bookstores because I shop at all these bookstores, even though they don't give me a discount, but I'd rather see their employees get hours still.”